The Ladybug’s Vintage Book Club: What’s Better Than a Book? A Used Book!

Last Friday all of Milan was celebrating Sant’Amborgio… offices were open only half day and the first snow of the season was falling, so I decided to use my half day off to visit the Salone del Libro Usato (Fair of the Used Book) in Milan.

This was the 8^th edition of this event and I must say that I understand its success. Not only I enjoyed my afternoon there, but I also grabbed some bargains and took in this beautiful smell of used books that I adore!

Being an avid reader, there are few things I appreciate more than a whole salon full of books… but the idea that most of them have been owned by someone else and read already makes me feel even more excited!

Many stalls were comprised of books (mostly second hand novels or sectoral books and even in foreign language reading), many others were antique books: amazing original volumes from the beginning of the ’900 (some of them could have been in a museum!), or autographed by the authors (like Andy Warhol for example!) or absolutely rare magazines, newspapers or stamps and postcards from the beginning of the XX century. Used and original old comics, posters, recipe books… and all kinds of printed papers were available for the avid printed papers fans!

I found newspapers of my youth that made me cry or books and magazines that I used to see at my grandmother place. The history of Italy in print was on display through this network of stallers and I thought, “there’s no better way to teach it than this!”

Here’s what I got…

5 used books for less than 20 euros (I needed something to read for the winter break!)

And these two lovely movie posters

The first one is a copy of the Italian version of Funny Face (that we call Cenerentola a Parigi – Cinderella in Paris) with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire and it was a gift from a staller with whom I spoke for a long time!

The second one is the original movie poster from the ’70s film “Lady Sings the Blues” (la signora del Blues) with my beloved Diana Ross who plays the role of my forever adored Lady Day (Ms. Billie Holiday). I can’t wait to give it a proper frame and hang it in my living room!

The Ladybug’s Vintage Book Club Goes in the Author’s Office: Introducing the Amazing Naomi Thompson, author of “Style Me Vintage – Clothes”

Being an avid reader and vintage addict, I spend a lot of time on Amazon or in bookstores (especially abroad) looking- not only for vintage books- but also for books about vintage.
I have two entire shelves full of books about vintage fashion, vintage style, vintage furniture and even vintage cooking and tea parties. The “Style Me Vintage” collection is one of my favorite so far: the first two books “Style Me Vintage: Hair” and “Style Me Vintage: Makeup” are an incredible source of ideas and tips to create great hair and makeup in a perfectly vintage style. They’re also a very interesting journey through different eras and concepts of beauty and hair style.
This is why, when I read the third installment of the collection, “Style Me Vintage: Clothes,” was coming out soon this year- I jumped online to order my copy! When I read that Naomi Thompson (one of my vintage gurus!) was the author I really got excited about it and checked the waiting list every day to see when the book would be in stock and I could finally get a copy of it!
If you don’t know about Naomi Thompson let me say that she is THE vintage reference not only for those of you are just approaching vintage fashion, but in general- for all vintage lovers! She is one of the most important and recognized vintage stylists and personal shoppers in the UK. Her site www.vintagesecret.com was immediately included in The Guardian’s “What’s Hot” list, and she is unbeatable in finding the best quality vintage items at the right price. As I told you, she’s my vintage guru!
When I finally received her book I immediately sat on the sofa with a cup of tea and read it all that afternoon! “Style Me Vintage: Clothes” is full of tips, looks and useful recommendations for everybody loving vintage. After a very interesting introduction; with many tips on how to date vintage clothes and how to find your personal vintage style along with great tips for buying vintage, Naomi starts a beautiful journey from the 20s through the 80s, providing many beautiful pictures and descriptions of the characteristics and features of each decade and amazing looks that re-create the daily and evening looks typical of those years.
The last part of the book is all about very useful tips: from vintage swimwear and lingerie to how to repair and maintain your vintage clothes, from the best labels and online shops to the most interesting books and online reading. A special mention goes to the casting of the models: the pictures are really beautiful, but the models are simply perfect! Fleur De Guerre is still at the top of my list of my favorite vintage models, but I also loved Annie Andrews, Hazel Holtham and Jennifer Siggs!
What I liked most about this book, is the fact that it is open to everyone: there’s advice and tips for those who wants to create their own vintage style as well as for those who are already into vintage. But for me the very important part of it is that Naomi doesn’t give general rules to follow blindly just to get “ a vintage look.” She helps women define their personal vintage look. The wide range of looks presented are not a model but an example to help women find their personal style. If you look at vintage bloggers, for example, they all are very different from each other and this is what makes them unique. Their style is considered vintage or vintage inspired but everyone uses the vintage touch infused in so many different ways. This is why I fell into vintage: it allows me to be myself, to wear things that nobody else wears and to mix it in my very personal way.
When I finished the book I contacted Naomi to tell her how much I loved it and how interesting I found it; I also asked her for an interview and I found out that she’s also one of the loveliest people I’ve ever met!

TLC: Naomi, I really enjoyed your book “Style Me Vintage: Clothes,” not only for the helpful tips but also because it is really inspiring for those women who would “learn” how to add a vintage touch in their style. What inspired the idea to write a book about vintage?
NT: Thank you, it is always a pleasure to hear. Unfortunately, the idea was not mine! I was lucky enough, a year ago this month, to be approached by the publishers to make the book. It was a bit of a heart stopping moment. They had followed my work and writing and liked the mixture of clothes, events and social occasions. The format is not far off at all [from] what I would have come up with, and I was very, very lucky that they humoured me in many ways and allowed me to choose the content around the looks. For instance, I was really happy to have the recommended reading section and the page about creating your looks. Half way though making it, it hit me like a ton of bricks that I did not want to make a book that dictated how anyone should dress and I changed the approach to make it more ‘relaxed.’ I think this has been key to its success. I don’t like being told what to wear!
TLC: One of the things that I appreciated most in your book is the idea of vintage fashion as a sign of individuality, a way to escape from the high street diktats to embrace a very personal way of dressing. Can you tell us more about your idea of vintage? What does vintage represent for you and why a woman, in your opinion, should consider wearing vintage?
NT: I feel quite strongly about this. I hate the idea of vintage becoming another slavishly followed trend that people feel obliged to follow. I believe we all need a creative outlet in our lives and our choices when it comes to dressing can provide this. On that note no one should wear vintage if they don’t want to. To me it’s exciting, it makes me feel unique and it’s also an enjoyable hobby, but it’s also a personal choice. There are so many forgotten shapes and patterns to choose from. [Incorporating] the vintage ‘palette’ [gives a] much broader [scope of choice] than if you dressed to be ‘on trend’ in high street clothes. You don’t have to go the whole hog though. I’m a big fan of old and new mixed.
TLC: In the UK, you are considered a “guru” when it comes to vintage fashion and your experience as a vintage personal shopper is clear: how has this experience helped you and what have you learned?
NT: I am quite happy to be a vintage shopping and dressing guru, but I can assure you- there are many people out who know a lot more about vintage than I do. I am no fashion historian. I am completely self-taught, and even that was backwards! My love of cut and colour came first. I still base my choices purely on the aesthetic appeal and garment quality. It was only later that I learnt about labels and fashion history. The personal shopping idea came from years of dressing people in vintage clothing for shoots or styling projects and developing a fairly quick eye when it comes to knowing if a vintage garment will fit someone
TLC: Some time ago we talked about the great success of charity shops in the UK, do you find some of your vintage clothes there? Do you have a favorite one in London?
NT: Yes; I do find them but it’s becoming harder, without a doubt. I also have a bit of a bee in my bonnet with ‘vintage sections’ in charity shops. It’s amazing the vintage that doesn’t end up there. Also I’m sorry to say, I have yet to see a charity shop with a vintage section that is fairly priced. The price range seems to be based purely on the supposed ‘age’ of the garment with no regard for quality or condition. For example I will not pay £19.99 for a smelly stained 70s polyester blouse just because it is from the 70s. I could go to a good vintage shop near me and get a lovely one, in mint condition for £12, that has been washed and lovingly sourced. The best shops are the ones that have a flat price of say £5 for dresses, £3.99 for cardies etc. There is an amazing charity shop in London (all I am saying is it in Hackney) where I have to date, found 6 pre-50s dresses for a fiver each.
TLC: We always try to find new tips about where to buy the best vintage around and you’re definitely the perfect person to ask! Which are your favorite shops or markets where you can find the best bargains in London or anywhere else?
NT: The problem with knowing where the best vintage is, is that after a while of recommending places, they tend to either up their prices or they run out of good stock. This has happened to two shops that I used to adore!
I’ll give you my two favourite shops and leave you to find the rest The best thing anyone can do is to take a weekend and go and have a good rummage in your area. Vintage is everywhere right now.
The Vintage Emporium and Tea Rooms (Bacon Street, just off Brick Lane)
If pre 1950s is your thing then this is worth more than a trip to the V&A. Owners Olli and Jess really know their stuff and the upstairs tea room is the perfect place to relax away from the Brick Lane masses.
Dead Man’s Glory Vintage (Portsmouth)
Luci’s shop is more like the local hang for the vintage obsessed and she always pulls something amazing out of the bag.

Soul Sunday with KNAGUI: A Corset For Your Thoughts???

“The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier” premiered at the Dallas Museum of Art (DMA), on November 13, 2001 and ran through February 12, 2012.  This was the DMAs inauguration into the art of contemporary fashion, which featured a multimedia exhibition of one of the world’s most celebrated couturiers.

I was really excited about going to this event.  I actually received the promotion for the show just before it opened and shared it with The Ladybug.  My excitement grew when she (obviously) knew who I was talking about.  I knew nothing about him… Still, I told her I would go, but I knew I wasn’t going to have any time available until February.  That time came on the last day of the exhibit.

Let me admit something… This turned out to not be KNAGUI’s “idea of a good time.”  It may have been better with The Ladybug as my guide to understand exactly what the hell couture is and it’s purpose in the world, but we’ll never know.  There were things I really dug about it, but I’m not a “costume”/”couture” (really don’t know what the difference or line is after seeing this show) wearer, so I couldn’t sink my teeth into his world of fashion.  I did, however, see his philosophy to showcase “the strength of women and the frailty of men” threaded throughout the exhibit.

The exhibition included pieces as recent as his Corcirico ensemble for men featuring black fox, feathers and lamé from the Haute Couture Fall Winter 2011/2012 collection and as vintage as his Sainte Nitouche Cow-Style Gown which was the first piece he created in 1971 (for Pierre Cardin, I think). Described by the Jean Paul as, “my biggest show ever [in] my life,” the more or less 500 works comprising the exhibition illustrate the technical virtuosity, unbridled joie de vivre, and daring flare that I’ve learned can only be Gaultier.

Stage outfits worn by Madonna (including two of the iconic cone bras worn during the 1990 Blond Ambition Tour), and Kylie Minogue are just a few of the 130 couture and ready-to-wear ensembles showcased for men and women spanning from 1976 to 2011.

More than midway through,  I felt like the guy dragged to the museum by his girlfriend, but this time… the girlfriend was me. LOL “I AM A BOY, DAMON!!!” (sorry, it was a movie line that popped in my mind)

 

 

Speaking of movies- excerpts from films, concerts, videos and dance performances give insight to Gaultier’s idiosyncratic connections with the worlds of art, music, film, and dance.  I found interesting how these multidisciplinary influences formed his eclectic and global creative vision.  As a wannabe photographer, I was drawn most to the photography.  There were loads of prints from renowned photographers and contemporary artists including Richard Avedon, Nathan Goldberg, Steven Klein,  David LaChapelle, Steven Meisel, Cindy Sherman, Mario Testino, Andy Warhol and more.  I was surprised when I rounded a corner into my favorite room of the exhibit to see the album cover for Cameo’s Word Up! album which was styled by Toyce Anderson.  Seeing it and the rest of the pieces and media in this room was like a much needed caffè Italiano. Buon Giorno!!!

According to Exhibition Curator and Catalogue Editor, Thierry-Maxime Loriot, “When you see the craftsmanship and all the work and how imaginative Gaultier is, I consider him a real artist. He designed more than 150 collections for himself, 15 for Hermès, countless collaborations with movie directors from Peter Greenaway to Luc Besson, dance choreographers, pop stars and all the videos he collaborated on, no other designer has ever achieved that much, but what is most fascinating is that it is always innovative, always new, never boring, which is exceptional. He initiates the trends rather than following them, which explains why he is still here after 35 years.” Adds exhibition catalogue contributor Suzy Menkes, Fashion Critic and Editor at the International Herald Tribune, “He is not just a fashion designer, he has created kind of modern art that should be in a museum.”

This may not have turned out to be my favorite assignment, but I did walk away with a refreshing prospect of how to open myself up for both my life and my art. Gaultier said two things that I’m keeping with me.  He said, “we must be proud to be different.” This is something that I’ve always embraced, but sometimes I need a reminder of accepting others’ differences.  This  evening helped.  He also said, “In life, I like the blemishes, scars, emotions of the skin, of the flesh of the moment.” To me, it was a testament of how soft his skin might be to absorb so much from the world around him and then squeeze out something so different yet similar …but beautiful (…But Beautiful is an awesome Shirley Horn compilation. I couldn’t help adding this because she’s such a big influence of mine). I’ve been wanting to make myself more absorbent to the world around me.  I think this helped me understand a bit more about how to do that. So to answer my question, a corset for my thoughts… NEVER! …but I can think of a wonderful being to put a corset on. lol

The exhibit is accompanied by the English publication of a 424-page exhibition catalogue. It features interviews with Gaultier friends, colleagues, and muses including Madonna, Pedro Almodóvar, Carla Bruni Sarkozy, Catherine Deneuve, Carine Roitfeld, Boy George, Marion Cotillard, Pierre et Gilles, Helen Mirren, Dita Von Teese, Tom Ford, and Victoria Abril, among others.

The next stop for the exhibit is: de Young-Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco; March 24 – Aug 19, 2012.  http://www.famsf.org

Soul Sunday with KNAGUI: …and the winner is???

(drumroll please)

 

The Ladybug and I would like to say, “Thank You!” to all of the participants.  We really appreciate you making this first giveaway a success.

Please stay tuned because the next one is right around the corner and it’s even bigger than this one!
Also, if you have friends who are musicians, let them know that I will host another give away within the next couple weeks.  Details for that will be found on FB  & Twitter.

Thanks again and congratulations (notice I didn’t type the name because I want you to watch the fun little video – lol).
Please send your shipping information to us via e-mail.

Soul Sunday with KNAGUI: If You Love Something, Let It Go…

Some people call me an artist and depending on how I feel, I sometimes say it too, but what most don’t know is that my “second art” is creating in the kitchen. I call myself a “wanna be culinary artist.” Yet there is another love just behind that and it’s my desire to be a photographer. I love it! A few years ago I bought a Nikon D-60 Special Edition. I don’t snap as much as I’d like to, but when I do- I really go for it. This year is my year for improvement in all areas of my life and I’m focused. While I was on tour I met an incredible photographer, Giuseppe Lupoli, who gave me some tips that I’m looking forward to having displayed in later posts by the Ladybug.

Over the years, I’ve collected many books and magazines of photography without giving any regard to anything more than composition and feeling that the art gave me. This is true for an incredible book in my library called “Fashion Now: i-D Selects the World’s Most Important Designers” published by Taschen. The photography in this book is INCREDIBLE! But honestly, Taschen never fails in this regard.

I never thought, when I bought this book, that I’d be a contributor to a blog of any kind, but life is a highway and I’m gonna ride it all night long. LOL Honestly, it’s one of my favorites.

Then there’s another smaller book I own called “wright: Branded Luxury 1900 – 1970). This little book has the big bite, showcasing some of the most amazing pieces from many fashion houses like Emilio Pucci, Hermes, Chaumet and more. One of my favorite photos is of a hand-stitched leather rhino from the 1960s by Abercrombie & Fitch (I had no idea they had been around that long, nor that they were considered a luxury brand). …Not to mention the LV laundry bag that I’m not having dreams of walking through the airport with.

So how does the title of this post tie in with the subjects… well the truth is, I’m not really a believer in that old phrase, but I do believe in sharing my joy with others so…

I…we, here at The Ladybug Chronicles are going to give these two books away on January 29, 2012. But there’s a catch… you have to do something to get them…
1. Like my page on FaceBook (www.facebook.com/knagui)
2. Like The Ladybug Chronicles on FaceBook (www.facebook.com/VintageTLC)
3. Follow me on Twitter (@KNAGUI)
4. Follow The Ladybug on Twitter (@TheLadybugC)
5. Share the post on your page and/or profile
6. Comment “I’m ready for my closeup” on this post on the blog (www.theladybugchronicles.com) and include your Facebook & Twitter name.
You can increase your chances to win by retweeting our tweets about the give-away.

Thank you and all the best.

The Ladybug’s Vintage Book Club Reads: “Hermès. L’avventura del lusso” by Federico Rocca

Since going to the Forlì Vintage Festival and meeting Luigi Cagliari from Tara Vintage, I realized after a couple of conversations with him, that although I love Hermès stuff so much, I don’t know that much about their history.

That’s why, when I read about this new book completely dedicated to Hermès’ history, I ran to the book store to get myself a copy to try to understand how and why Hermès is a real icon today. How is it possible that their bags are sold at auctions as if they were paintings, and why is it one of the few companies with a 46% profit during the most powerful crisis of the century?

Federico Rocca, the writer, is first journalist I really appreciated for his serious, no fashion fantasies commentary! The history starts in 1837, when the Maison was created by the saddler Thierry Hermès, as a reins and equestrian equipment factory, until the arrival of Jean-Louis Dumas in 1978 who brings Hermès, in a few years, to top of the world’s most important luxury brands. The history brings the reader through the adventure of a real luxury family starting with saddles and reins and moving to handbags, silk foulards (the famous carré), clothing, home design and jewellery.

Family history and the French society are always linked throughout this amazing book. All the most important designers working for Hermès are greatly remembered (from Véronique Nichanian to Herni D’Origny, to Leila Menchari), and the last chapter is a real guide to buying authentic Hermès vintage and how to recognize it from the knockoffs.

A special attention is given to the history of the two Hermès iconic bags: the Birkin and the Kelly.

The highly coveted Hermès Birkin bag was originally created in 1984 by Jean-Louis Dumas for British-born model-actress-singer, Jane Birkin. The story goes: the pair were seated next to one another on a flight from Paris to London in 1981 when Jane’s belongings tumbled out from her straw bag stored in the overhead. The actress told Dumas that she couldn’t seem to find a leather weekender that she actually liked, which compelled the designer to create one just for her. In April of this year, Jane auctioned her infamous bag on eBay and donated all $163,000 of the proceeds to the British Red Cross for relief efforts in Japan.

Since the days of its creation, the Birkin has become the ultimate status symbol for fashionable women around the globe. It is distinguished by its handmade craftsmanship, the Hermès signature saddle stitch developed in the 1800s and by its padlock closure with the keys tucked away in a leather clochette. Hermès actually started in 1837 as a premier horse bridle and harness shop- producing fine saddlery for the elite in the late 1800s and introduced high-end clothing, accessories and leather handbags in the 1920s. Émile-Maurice, son of the company’s founder Charles-Emile Hermès, began creating handbags because his wife complained of not being able to find one that she liked. Sound familiar? In 1935 the Sac à dépêches (meaning “news bag”) was released. It was a smaller, updated version of the first ever Hermès bag, the Haut à courroies, which was created in 1900 and designed to carry the saddles of horseback riders. The Sac à dépêches was later renamed the Kelly bag in 1956 after Grace Kelly: when the new Princess of Monaco was photographed holding the purse on the cover of Life magazine to purportedly hide her baby bump. The Kelly is actually quite similar to the Birkin except for a few key differences: the Kelly is more formal and refined, while the Birkin is more casual and youthful; the Kelly has one handle instead of two like the Birkin; the Kelly has a convenient shoulder strap, while the Birkin does not; and the Kelly is a little less expensive than the Birkin.

The Birkin bag typically ranges in price from $9,000 to $180,000, depending on hide, size, and hardware. It is most popular in 30, 35, and 40 centimetres with weekender sizes available and there is also a Baby Birkin ($5,000) which barely holds a cell phone. The $180,000 Diamond Birkin features a diamond encrusted lock and clasp and is by far the hardest to find as very few are produced each year. There is one Birkin; however, that outshines all the rest. Created by Japanese designer Ginza Tanaka, this one-of-a-kind platinum evening Birkin is covered in over 2,000 diamonds totaling 208 carats. The bag sold in 2008 for $1.9 million, making it one of the world’s most expensive handbags. Serving multi-functional purposes, it has a removable 8-carat pear shaped diamond and a detachable diamond strap that can be used as a necklace or bracelet. (The Affluist, 17/10/2011)